New York City has held a Celebrate Israel Day parade for many decades. In 2024, just months after the worst attack on the Jewish people since the Holocaust, the gathering of Jews and Israel-supporters had a very different feeling.
Among the many marchers were several elderly people who survived the European Holocaust 80 years ago. Some joined a float sponsored by the Claims Conference, the organization that secures funding from European countries, principally Germany, and distributes it to help the elderly victims.
Holocaust survivors at the Israeli Day Parade, June 1, 2024(photo: First one Through)
The survivors and Claims Conference supporters wore shirts that read “cancel hate” on the front, while the backs read “never again,” particularly meaningful slogans for people who had survived violent trauma as children and were living through a period of antisemitic slaughter and vulgar hatred again in their old age.
Alas, “never again” proved a hollow slogan. On October 7, vicious Palestinian Arab antisemites invaded Israel and butchered 1,200 civilians in their homes and at a peaceful dance rave. In the tragedy’s immediate aftermath, people in many cities – including New York City – chanted that they were thrilled at the burning of Jewish families. Once again.
Eight months later, Holocaust survivors rode up Fifth Avenue holding Israeli flags, as New York City Police sharpshooters watched from atop buildings, and drones and helicopters circled overhead, worried that anti-Israel protestors would attack the celebration.
Police helicopters and sharpshooters atop buildings, watched as a float carrying Holocaust survivors went up Fifth Avenue at the Israeli Parade, June 1, 2024 (photo: FirstoneThrough)
Only half of Fifth Avenue held onlookers, as the police did not want infiltrators coming in from Central Park, which packed viewers against the buildings. Many wore stickers and held placards to finish Hamas, the ruling Palestinian entity of Gaza which carried out the vicious massacre and has sworn to destroy the Jewish State.
The survivors were born in various countries including Poland and Russia. They were mostly women, as male survivors are becoming a rarity.
They waved flags. They danced with young Jews.
Holocaust survivors dance with parents and students from Hillel
They cried at the situation that they were living in a world where “never again” were empty words, even as they clasped Israeli flags and tried to remain hopeful that now Jews have autonomy in the State of Israel which was lacking during World War II.
The reality is that they had fled many years ago to America and internalized that this “goldene medina” was unique and offered Jews protection and opportunity absent in Europe.
Now, their smiles and optimism felt shallow.
The crowd very much echoed those feelings. Yellow ribbons, pins and stickers calling to bring home the 125 remaining hostages held by Palestinian Arabs, were close to everyone’s hearts and minds.
Crowd – set back by an eight-foot gap with barricades – wave to Holocaust survivors on the Claims Conference float riding on Fifth Avenue in New York City’s Israel Day Parade on June 1, 2024 (photo: First One Through)
In the end, the Holocaust survivors didn’t confront any Jew haters in the crowd as they rode the float in the Israel celebration. They and the crowd which included many with family members impacted by the October 7 Massacre as well as the War on Terror, thought about the words that accompanied them on the journey from Matisyahu’s One Day song:
All my life, I’ve been waitin’ for (waitin’ for) I’ve been prayin’ for (prayin’ for), for the people to say That we don’t wanna fight no more (fight no more) There’ll be no more wars (no more wars), and our children will play
One day (one day), one day (one day) One day (oh, oh, oh, oh-oh-oh, one day) One day (one day), one day (one day) One day (oh-oh-oh)
One day, this all will change, treat people the same Stop with the violence, down with the hate One day, we’ll all be free and proud to be Under the same sun, singin’ songs of freedom like
Wah-yo (one day, one day), wah-yo, oh, oh (oh-oh-oh) Wah-yo (one day, one day), wah-yo, oh, oh (oh-oh-oh)
People cheer Holocaust survivors wearing shirts “never again” and holding Israeli flags as they ride up Fifth Avenue to Matisyahu’s song “One Day” on June 1, 2024 (First One Through)
‘The Zone Of Interest‘ is an unusual Holocaust movie. It shows the daily life of the head of the Auschwitz concentration camp inside his home abutting the vast killing factory. Living a peaceful life with his wife and children, the viewer is struck by the carefree life of the Nazi officer and his family, treating the annihilation of European Jewry as simply a normal 9-to-5 job which supports the family in the way they always desired.
Part of the funding for the movie was from the government of Poland, and its influence can be seen in directing the audience to see that the true evil actors were the German Nazis and not Poles, who were portrayed as trying to help Jews in some way, dropping apples around the camp for Jews who managed to escape. Modern Poles are shown at the end of the film, keeping today’s Holocaust museum at the site tidy for tourists who can view the Jewish possessions which were not seized by the Nazis and their families. The actual rampant Polish Jew hatred is invisible in the film.
Vile Jew-hatred continues today, as do new movies, shows and museums focused on the global scourge. Many contrast past antisemitism to modern Jew-hatred such as the remarkable play ‘Prayer for the French Republic‘ as well as ‘Leopolstadt’. Others are devoted just to the Holocaust like the new museum in Amsterdam. Some try to tie antisemitism into the Arab-Israeli conflict like the opera ‘Death of Klinghoffer.‘
Tragically, many of the works of art about noxious Jew hatred have become awash in the Arab-Israeli conflict. It would appear that Jews being cast as victims – whether with posters of kidnapped Israeli Jewish civilians, or a Holocaust museum – is too much for Palestinian Arab supporters who want to see the Jewish State crushed.
At the March 2024 opening of the new Holocaust museum in Amsterdam, hundreds of protestors gathered outside to shout “Free, free Palestine” and “Viva, viva Intifada,” screaming for the destruction of the Jewish State and murder of Jews.
Anti-Israel demonstrators at the opening of the National Holocaust Museum in Amsterdam. Pic: AP
In the U.S., The New York Times published a grotesque opinion that compared Israel’s activities in trying to save its hostages and root out the perpetrators of the October 7 massacre to the Nazi family in ‘The Zone of Interest.’ Over-and-again it wrote of the “military siege of Gaza” and “Israel’s assault on Gaza” in a movie review about a Holocaust film.
NY Times lead opinion piece on March 9, 2024
The author, David Klein, could have stated his opinion about the War From Gaza without attaching his comments to a film about the systematic killing of 6 million Jews but he, and many like him, don’t want to. They want to strip Jews of any protection – offensive or defensive. The end of the article makes clear that he is against supplying Israel with weaponry to prosecute the Palestinian terrorist army of Hamas; appending his opinion to a Holocaust film is designed to also remove America’s shield for Israel at the United Nations and with resupplying the Iron Dome missile defense.
To make his refuse stink a bit less, Klein peppered the “AsAJew” line to protect himself from accusations of antisemitism.
Eli Lake penned an article in Commentary Magazine in March 2024 called “A Brief History of the ‘AsAJew’“. Lake sees this as a phenomenon of far-left diaspora Jews, as even progressives in Israel know that Hamas must be destroyed after the heinous barbarous attack which the terrorist group has threatened to repeat.
Lake described a long history of AsAJews during moments of Jewish suffering appealing to the antisemitic attackers to continue to persecute. He wrote that centuries ago, “the AsAJews of their day lobbied their hosts in the Diaspora to banish or convert the Jewish people to Christianity and to confiscate and burn the Talmud.” He details the story of a man in the 15th century named Johannes Pfefferkorn who converted from Judaism and helped fuel a mini crusade against his former co-religionists.
Times have changed some of the nouns in the anti-Semitic Mad Lib, but the story reads familiar.
Lake wrote, “In the Middle Ages, AsAJew converts were pawns the Church used to spread lies about the Talmud. In 2024, the AsAJews are not converts to Christianity. They are instead converts to the false prophecy of left-wing social-justice activism…. The anti-Semites of the Middle Ages needed AsAJews to provide credentials for the lies that justified their pogroms and expulsions. Today, Hamas and its allies in Iran need the AsAJews to persuade the Hague, European governments, and the White House to delegitimize Israel’s right to self-defense.”
I will add some observations on top of Lake’s. For centuries, antisemites including AsAJews, came for the Jews by attacking the religion itself. They concocted stories about Passover matzah in blood libels and the Talmud teaches black magic. Today’s cohort attack Jews and Jewish history, not the religion. They mock the Holocaust. They claim Jews have no history in the land of Israel and are “colonizers” who stole land from Arabs, and that Jews never had holy temples in Jerusalem so should be banned from prayer in a site that is solely holy to Muslims.
By ignoring religion, the modern day antisemites refuse to carry the antisemitic mantle because they are not attacking the religion, just bad actors who happen to be Jewish. The AsAJew allies provide a wide fig leaf for the charade, much as they’ve done for centuries.
Museums and films devoted to the heinous slaughter of Jews in the Holocaust, which would normally demonstrate the profound need for Jews to have self-determination, are being used by the alt-left and Islamic radicals to argue that Jews should be left to the wolves of Hamas. Some are not as shrill, and offer a tepid “both sides” support, blind to their echoing former President Donald Trump’s Charlottesville remarks.
‘The Zone of Interest’ Winning Best International Film on March 10, 2024, with callout to Israeli and Palestinian victims of terror
As antisemitism scales to terrifying levels around the world, the alt-left and Islamic radicals are turning works of art and remembrances of the deliberate mass butchering of Jews on October 7 and during the Holocaust into calls to attack Jews and the one Jewish State. Many progressive Jews are appalled and are abandoning their former partners-in-crime as now-revealed naked antisemites. But the AsAJews have remained steadfast and will share names and addresses of the Zionists, marking Jews as zealots who need to be punished for the good of mankind once again.
World opinion is now shaped by social media influencers who often know nothing about a topic. We listen to idiots including basketball stars and models about geopolitics, as if they’re well informed. It has led to a global youth which knows little about history, even basic facts like the genocide of European Jewry. According to a December 2023 YouGov poll, 20% of people 18-29 think the Holocaust is a myth.
Even more than social media, the movie industry still influences billions of people around the world. Blockbuster movies like the Marvel superheroes franchise get global distribution and are enormously popular. Consider the 2016 movie Captain America: Civil War. It grossed $1.15 billion, of which only $400 million was in the United States. The franchise has global recognition and is viewed everywhere.
In 2022, Disney announced that its subsidiary Marvel will introduce a new character to the Captain America universe, an ex-Israeli Mossad agent named Sabra. She first appeared in 1980 in The Incredible Hulk.
Anti-Zionists went berserk and demanded she be pulled from the script. To mollify the anti-Israel anger, Marvel issue a statement: “While our characters and stories are inspired by the comics. They are always freshly imagined for the screen and today’s audience, and the filmmakers are taking a new approach with the character Sabra who was first introduced in the comics over 40 years ago.”
Keep in mind that the actor who plays Hulk in the Marvel movies, Mark Ruffalo, has stated for many years that Israel is committing a “genocide” against Palestinians. Will he take part in a film that portrays an Israeli agent favorably?
In light of the Palestinian Arabs’ sadistic October 7 massacre in Israel and the global response attacking Israel, the liberal media giant may spin the Israeli superhero into a supervillain. It is imperative that people contact Marvel NOW to ensure a positive image is used for the Israeli superhero.
Call Marvel Customer Service at 1-844-362-7835 (Hours of Operation: Monday-Friday 8:30 am to 5:30 pm CT); and/or
The riders of the sugar storm went to Brooklyn again this year, focused on Flatbush. We started at Schreiber’s which is usually at the end of the trip, because we picked up an important taster who had just flown in from Israel into JFK Airport after ten days of volunteering after the horrible October 7 massacre. We hoped the sugar would alleviate the jet lag and stress.
All of the bakeries we tried were good, as this was our fifth year going to Brooklyn, and have eliminated those bakeries which did not score at least a “6” in the overall ranking in the past. We were sugared out after five locations, so did not make it to some favorites like Ostrovitsky’s.
Schreiber’s Homestyle Bakery, 3008 Avenue M
Per tradition, we immediately picked up Schreiber’s lace cookies which are amazing. We grabbed dairy cheese sufganiyot from the back of the store to bring to a niece who said they were amazing. We sampled the pareve selection which were just mediocre. The pistachio one only had pistachios on the outside but no pistachio flavor inside. The dough was too heavy without a lot of flavor. Overall a 6.
Pistachio donut from Schreiber’s
As we debated our scores outside of the bakery (note the filling flavor started as a ‘3’ and settled on a ‘5’ after everyone’s input), a local came over and asked our thoughts on the top bakeries in the neighborhood. It seems that other people are also doing the crawl.
Schreiber’s bakery kicked off the scoring for Hanukkah 2023
Kaff Bakery 1906 Avenue M
Kaff was a new addition to the crawl. We were impressed that several sefaradi people were picking up jelly donuts, as their bakeries do not have a tradition of making the holiday treats. Each one said that Kaff was a favorite but we were disappointed. While the lotus donut was packed with filling, it was not smooth and creamy, and was overly sweet (for me). Fellow travelers loved them which gave a more balanced overall score of ‘7’.
Kaff Bakery had a nice selection of donuts
Presser’s Kosher Bagels and Bakery, 1720 Ave. M
Presser’s donuts candidly did not look at all appetizing and we didn’t purchase any. Instead we tried the chocolate horn which had tasty chocolate but the dough was not as flaky as Weiss’s bakery.
Patis Bakery, 1716 Ave. M
Patis was almost completely sold out by the time we arrived around 11:00am. They had one variety – almond hazelnut – which was fantastic. Very buttery soft dough, good hazelnut filling and tasty toasted almonds on top. An ‘8.5’.
Almond hazelnut donut from Patis, Hanukkah 2023
Taste of Israel, 1322 Avenue M
Taste of Israel requires a pre-order some days in advance at (347) 554-8133. We highly recommend it. It was a new addition to the crawl and tied for top marks with Sesame. The dough is actually better than Sesame in terms of fluffiness and flavor, which is not always easy because it needs to contain the heavy filling. TOI mastered it. While the presentation is not as pretty as some of the other bakeries, the overall taste was terrific even when we ate them later at night. We went for Oreo and Halva; they also have lotus, caramel, custard, jelly and rosemary. A ‘9’.
Taste of Israel donuts ranked highest for dough, and also good flavor
Sesame – Flatbush, 1540 Coney Island Ave
Sesame did not disappoint. Unfortunately, the store has developed a reputation for excellence so is a bit packed but perhaps that’s sharing the joy of the holiday. We heard that the dairy varieties (marked with blue labels) were out of this world but mostly purchased pareve to bring to people for dinner. The pareve (marked with green labels) peanut butter was outstanding – a 10. White chocolate, which I do not usually like was very tasty. Pistachio, as always, was terrific as was the lemon. Sesame puts flavor into the fondant on top of the donut for a doubly amazing experience. We bought dozens to bring back to share with people. A solid ‘9’.
Sesame bakery donuts, Hanukkah 2023
Below is the overall scorecard for each bakery. We hope you enjoy them and Happy Chanuka!
There was a time when elite institutions successfully hawked their wares in an effort to stuff more cash into their bloated pockets. Universities like Harvard, Columbia and Cornell would shill like snake oil salesmen that thousands of dollars ponied up for pieces of paper with their embossed emblems would lead to greater riches, so a worthwhile investment.
Harvard’s online course on “leadership”
But the fragrance has left the rose and all that remains are prickly thorns from these former institutions of higher knowledge.
The weeks of October 2023 will be remembered for when the world blanched at the horrific comments stemming from the institutions’ leadership, professors and students, either endorsing or excusing the maiming and butchering of over 1,000 people in Israel.
At Cornell, professor Russell Rickford called the Hamas atrocity “exhilarating” and “energizing” before a crowd. Jewish students at the school were threatened with violence in a number of online posts.
Somehow, the school thinks that people still believe that the institution has a shred of morality to offer a course on the “psychology of leadership.”
Cornell University offering a course on “leadership” pitching that it “leads with empathy”
Columbia University professor Joseph Massad thought Hamas’s burning families alive was “awesome.” This is the same university that INVITED Malaysian Prime Minster Mahathir Mohamad to speak on campus, even though he is a known Holocaust denier and “proud antisemite.” It also INVITED Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad who threatened to wipe Israel off the map.
No worry. For several thousands of dollars you can get a paper from the school attesting to your skills at “communication,” because maybe you can find an employer stupid enough to believe that the certificate you bought from a formerly elite university is worth something.
Columbia hawking a communications degree for anyone willing to pay
Harvard is producing so many quality students that gleefully stand in support of Hamas that the school’s paper will now be known as the Bloody Crimson. Clearly everyone should purchase a “leadership” piece of paper from a school that produces such evil creatures.
America’s universities have become cesspools of radical socialism and jihadism, and the world has taken notice. People will no longer pay for worthless pieces of paper from morally bankrupt institutions which funnel proceeds to classes labeling Zionism a form of “European settler colonialism.” Employers are now shunning the schools, and people are removing any mention of them from their LinkedIn profiles.
Ivy League universities are churning out monsters. Finally, Americans are recognizing the rot and seeking to quarantine them before they destroy what was once the land of the free.
Probably the greatest living graffiti artist alive today is known as ‘Banksy,’ who manages to stay anonymous.
That’s probably a good thing in light of his being a sponsor of Palestinian terrorism.
Banksy has several paintings on walls in the Palestinian territories which depict Israelis as merciless and Arabs as suffering souls, looking for an escape.
In one painting, Banksy shows a protestor throwing a bouquet of flowers instead of a Molotov cocktail. The implied message is that one needs to be violent to effectively protest, as throwing flowers would not yield any results.
Perhaps on the other side or along this wall, Banksy could draw images of Jewish families burned to death in their cars. Maybe a decapitated infant with an overturned crib. A woman grabbed by her hair and raped, or an elderly couple with bullets in their heads at a bus stop. Any of the gruesome images that Hamas terrorists inflicted on Israelis, with the Palestinian protestor seemingly tossing flowers onto Jewish graves.
The work could be called “Celebrating The Slaughter of Jewish Civilians” and he can sign it “Gaza and West Banksy.” The same art world which loved the Klinghoffer Opera can celebrate the “masterpiece.”
Banksy knows that he beautifies terrorists and softens their images in an appeal for sympathy. But the brutality is not beautiful and sympathy for such savages is sacrilegious.
The music at the Israeli dance festival was stopped by Palestinian bullets, and it is time for Banksy and other artists to stop adorning evil with wreaths.
The French Riviera has much to offer in addition to beautiful beaches and towns, including numerous kosher restaurants and museums. Alas, the quality varies which I share honestly here. Note that this review is ground covered over nine days, so many locations are not reviewed. Below I recap the food, museums and towns.
FOOD
There are three main centers for kosher bakeries, stores and restaurants between Saint Tropez and Menton, on the border of Italy. Those are Cannes, Juan-les-Pins and Nice. Overall, Cannes has the best food of the three.
Cannes
It may only have half the size Jewish population of Nice but the food is better and the attitude of the people running the restaurants is much friendlier.
Moye. Moye is the finest of the restaurants in the region. Located on the eastern end of the main beach street of La Croisette, one can eat either outside (which can be a little noisy) or inside in a finely decorated establishment. The food is very good with a wide selection of meat main dishes, sides, wines and desserts. Try the nougat for dessert; it originated in the region and Moye makes an excellent version which doesn’t have the sticky, taffy-like consistency found in packaged varieties, but softer and more cake like. Nougat somewhat resembles macaroons in taste as it is made of egg whites, honey, sugar and almonds. The staff here is very friendly and accommodating.
Nougat dessert at Moye, Cannes, France
Le Tovel. On a quiet side street not a far walk from La Croisette is a small meat kosher restaurant. While not fancy, it had a decent menu. The steak and risotto were ready in minutes and pretty good, while the fries were oily.
Dr. Sandwich. A relatively new locale, the meat sandwich shop does not have seating. The street food is very tasty, with the sandwiches essentially made from a giant piece of challah with a slit instead of a pita pouch. Like a traditional shwarma place, you pick the salads and fillings to accompany the protein.
Bekef 26. The restaurant is attached to a makolet where one can buy a range of items including cold cuts, wine and candles. One can eat inside as we did for lunch, and the salmon dish was pretty good. Take-away cold cut sandwiches for a day trip. The staff is very friendly.
OKLM. A meat restaurant just a block from Dr. Sandwich with seating indoors and out. While not as quiet as the street with Le Tovel, it is pleasant enough outside and the food was good with large portions.
[Bakery]. There’s a small kosher bakery right next to Rouvi on Rue Louis Nouveau which has a very modest selection of items. They are fine but a far cry from the taste and appearance one finds in Paris.
Juan-les-Pins
Further east from Cannes is Juan-les-Pins, a community mostly made up of Tunisian Jews who fled in the 1960s and 1970s. There are many kosher establishments located very close to each other. Knowledge of English here is not as good as the major tourist towns of Nice and Cannes.
Kozy. A dairy café and bakery. The food is fine with a small selection of brunch food such as pancakes, eggs and sandwiches. The pastries and sweet rolls were OK.
Le Carmel. Next to Kozy is a kosher bakery that has long hours for a bakery with many locales hanging outside. Alas, the baked goods are very dry and not tasty.
Tunisian kosher bakery in Juan-les-Pins
Besbeche Azur. Just a street away from many of the kosher places is a fairly nice-looking meat restaurant called Berbeche. The meat is not very good, either lacking taste or very spicy/ salty. Foie gras was in many of the dishes, a locale favorite but not for me.
Nice
Nice is the major city in the region with a sizable Jewish community, so the kosher restaurants are a bit more spread out than in the other towns. Most are located on Rue Georges Clemenceau, and some further away. Most of the stores have the Lubavitcher Rebbe on the wall and have ties to Chabad.
Meat Bar. Near the major cluster of kosher restaurants is a small meat restaurant called Meat Bar. The menu is very limited but the dishes like lamb chops and shnitzel are very tasty. The servers are very friendly, and one is inclined to return, especially in light of the weak competition.
Falafel Sahara. Away from the cluster is a clean store selling shwarma, schnitzel and falafel. Ordering is done on a screen and eat either inside or out. Food was very fresh and tasty. Note: “green peppers” in France means jalapeno, not bell peppers.
Falafel Sahara in Nice, France
Keter. Among the cluster of restaurants is Keter, a dairy restaurant serving fish, pasta and gratin. The food is not very tasty and the staff is cold. While there is seating inside, there is no air conditioning and felt dirty.
Le Kineret. The meat restaurant has take-away options which one should consider as the store is not very clean, had no air conditioning and the staff was unfriendly. The tuna and salmon sandwiches are fine as are the baked good like meringue and biscotti. The chocolate cookies seemed weeks old. While a link to the website is included here, it is as deceiving as a dating app photo. Generally, an unremarkable B- which beats being hungry but you wouldn’t regularly visit.
Le Leviathan. While a much friendlier place than Keter and Kineret, and much cleaner, it is located on a seedy street. Don’t go there at night. The dairy food is fine (also B-) with good selection of pizza, pasta and fish.
Chabad. The shul hosts dozens of people on Friday night and has a small restaurant which we didn’t visit. While the Americans seem to reserve and pay in advance, many stragglers fill the outdoor courtyard in a classic Chabad way. Definitely enough food, with most filling up on the challah.
Try the 123cacher app to find the various restaurants.
MUSEUMS
While the region has many museums, I was advised to skip several including Renoir, Leger and the archeological museums. Outside of the first three listed below, all could be skipped. Note that the current wave of protestors throwing liquids on famous works of art sometimes produces a very long waiting line as security pours through each visitor’s bag.
Picasso. Museo Picasso in Antibes is right on the water in a bright, beautiful old building where the artist worked after World War II for about 18 months. He left most of the art he produced over this period to the location, so a great place to see unique paintings, pottery and sculpture.
Chagall. Chagall is a favorite in Nice. His museum is up the hill but very worth the visit. His enormous works about biblical scenes can be seen up close with great commentary from audio guides accessed via QR codes on your phone. There are gardens on the premises as well. Surprisingly few visitors were there when we visited.
Prince of Monaco Auto Collection. The prince of Monaco donated his car collection which includes antiques from the 1920s all the way up to cars from 2000, as well as a number of Formula 1 race cars. Located at the Monaco port on two floors, the description of the cars is a bit light but the air conditioning is very welcome after the intense Monaco sun.
Palais Lecaris. In the middle of Old Town Nice is an old mansion that now houses an amazing collection of antique musical instruments. Harps, harpsicords and lutes from hundreds of years ago are arranged in cases in the non-air conditioned building.
Matisse. Do not come here if you want to see the artist’s famous works. The best things here are a series of sketches which show how Matisse conceived of a subject before getting to the final painting, and some cut outs that were assembled to be used in future artworks. Regrettably, the museum is mostly obsessed about the building itself and how great it is (and it’s not). Further, it is far away from most other interesting destinations in Nice.
Photography. Near the flower market in Old Town Nice is a small photography museum which rotates its exhibits. Fortunately the current ones are good. Both locations (next to each other) can be viewed in 15 minutes.
MAMAC. The modern art museum of Nice is pretty large but the best art work is the white space between the installations. The museum features contemporary works of “art” which are mostly physical manifestations meant to educate the viewer about the evils of global warming and colonization.
CITIES
The French Riviera is known as Cote d’Azur because of the beautiful blue water that wraps the various coves. The beaches are mostly pebbles and rocks, collateral from the soaring cliffs above the sea. The towns on the coast are basically sized against the length of the beach, with Nice having the largest beach, promenade and city.
Going around the region by car to each town offers three main options: a single lane road along the coast, wrapping the mountains with hairpin turns, or driving inland to the highway (A8) to zoom east/west and then descending to the towns. In other words, don’t look at a map to see how close the towns are but use a driving app like Waze.
Going from most western to eastern:
Saint Tropez. The town has a big flashy name and the tourists to prove it. It features a large marina with enormous yachts, a cute old town for walking around and small boutique hotels. Parking is difficult as tourists dwarf the number of spots on the beach and things to see. Many high end clothing brands are here, and Dior has a beautiful building with courtyard for drinks and food.
Gassin. Up in the mountains above St. Tropez is a very small mountain town called Gassin. There’s not much to do but the drive through the vineyard to get there and views from the mountaintop are very nice. It claims to have the narrowest street in the world, about 15 inches across.
The vineyards near Gassin
St. Raphael. A charming beach town. While it doesn’t have the big name shopping brands like Cannes and St. Tropez, the beach and marina are inviting and very manageable as tourists seem to ignore this hidden gem.
St. Maxime. A very small town with a modest beach and a quaint old town with just a few streets with shopping for clothing, bags and home items. There is a decent sized antiques/ bric a brac market near the beach as well.
Cannes. This is the big money town. Every fancy car one could imagine dot the roads including Lambourginis, Mclarens, Aston Martins, Ferraris, Bentleys, Maserattis, antique Rolls Royces and Porsches, and many more. The botox and “enhancement” surgery is ubiquitous, with old and young women trying to compete with the curves of the cars. The old town is nice and shopping streets have a fun liveliness beyond the stores. The promenade of La Croisette is lined with palm trees and beautiful hotels like The Carlton Hotel. Hotel Martinez recaptures the Art Deco feel found in Miami hotels but with fantastic service. Stop by Palais des Festivals where people like to have their pictures taken on the red carpet where the Cannes Film Festival takes place. Bring a mat to the public beach as the rocks are hard. Renting a chair – even if you are staying at a hotel – can costs hundreds of dollars for the day. If you’re lucky, crash a wedding at the beach.
Carlton Hotel exteriorCarlton Hotel lobby
Juan-les-Pins. The town has a nice beach, cute stores and some boutique hotels and parks. Overall, it feels much poorer than Cannes, with many store fronts vacant once leaving the main beach street.
Cap d’Antibes. Between Juan-les-Pins and Antibes, a small peninsula juts out into the Mediterraean Sea. The area is mostly reserved for the wealthy homeowners behind high walls but there is a pathway towards a public beach with pretty sunsets and a place to swim.
Antibes. Not far from Juan-les-Pins is the major marina of Antibes with hundreds of boats, a charming old town which includes Museo Picasso and a beach tucked behind some breakers.
St. Paul de Vence. Driving inland is a small town on a hill. The site is basically a single street dotted with art galleries and many tourists. Chagall is buried in the cemetery.
Tourettes-sur-Loup. While St. Paul de Vence is teeming with visitors, no one comes to Touretts-sur-Loup. It is also an old city built on a hill but with many more streets but very few shops. The town offers half hour of free parking to lure visitors, seemingly unsuccessfully.
Nice. The major city which houses the airport, there is a huge old town with frequent markets which change daily – sometimes flowers, food or antiques. There are many shuls including the Grand Synagogue, mostly Sephardi, and restaurants and museums mentioned above. Also grab drinks at the Le Negresco hotel at the main promenade.
Villefranche-sur-Mer. A charming beach front town with marina, beach and places to grab a drink. It has a nice balance between the size of the town and quantity of visitors.
St. Jean Cap Ferrat. Between Villefranche and Beauleiu, Cap Ferrat juts out into the sea much like Cap d’Antibes. The water somehow seems more blue and visitors more mature than the younger Cap d’Antibes beaches. The walk around the tip from the forest to Paloma Beach is beautiful. At the beach, models of all sizes are in bikinis for professional photo shoots. Try to grab a free shuttle at the end of the day to take you to your car parked far away!
St. Jean Cap Ferrat
Beaulieu. A small marina and beach seemingly for the very wealthy and few tourists. The main draw is the beautiful La Reserve hotel. The outdoor market with high end furniture and eclectic art was empty.
Eze Village. Better than St. Paul de Vence and Tourettes-sur-Loup, Eze is an extensive town-on-a-hill with grand views of the coast. Large perfumeries like Galimard and Fragonard have tours of how perfume is made and the restaurants allow you to buy a drink and soak in the incredible views. Go to the Exquisite Jardins at the very top to see amazing succulent plants and appreciate the dramatic views of Cap Ferrat.
Views of Cap Ferrat from Eze Village
Monaco. Like Cannes, a major focus is on money, including cars, fancy hotels and shopping. The Grimaldi Forum rotates its shows (I got to see Monet) and the Prince’s Antique Car collection is worth a stop along with the grand hotels such as Hermitage. The grand Casino de Monte Carlo is beautiful and opens at 2pm for gambling but one can see the entry at any time.
Menton. Right before the Italian border is another beach town called Menton. It has a long stretch of beach and a small old town. Few tourists relative to the size of the beach.
Hopefully a useful guide for people planning a trip to the French Riviera.
There is a beach in France where the ordinary proved extraordinary, As common men fought fire-breathing dragons On a far away shore.
There is a beach in France below thousands of white crosses Blanketing rolling green fields, Manicured and resolute.
From the beach in France, American volunteers now amend a wrong Affixing Stars of David to the headstones Of fallen Jewish warriors.
From the beach in France, a rabbi squints at a green hill Encasing a Jewish cemetery long overgrown With vines on broken railings.
At the American cemetery in France, visitors stare into the distance, Blind to the blood and bones Soaked in the Earth.
There is a beach in France where silent sentries shine tall Over traumatized sand, Who cast long sunset shadows on forests covering countless forgotten lives.
The entertainment industry is having both a bit of fun and mired in controversy regarding its choices of actors in movies and plays.
‘The Lehman Trilogy’ played on Broadway and featured three British non-Jewish actors – one Black – portraying three German Jews. TV’s ‘The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel’ about a female Jewish comedian is played by a non-Jewish actress. The upcoming movie about Israeli Prime Minister Golda Meir will similarly not star a Jewish – or Hebrew-speaking – actress.
The Jewish comedian Sarah Silverman called this practice “Jewface,” taking a lift from the term ‘Blackface’ in which a non-Black actor paints their face Black (something Silverman has done). While some actors object to the practice (only for Jews; it is universally condemned for Blacks), others think that the nature of acting should allow anyone to play any part.
In the show ‘Hamilton’, the founders of the American revolution were cast as Black and Hispanic, to show how the story would be told from a different perspective (considering Hamilton himself as a Black-ish figure) using rap music. The musical ‘1776‘ took this approach a step further, and recast the founding fathers as all female or non-binary, as well as non-White. The directors thought that doing so would make the discussion about slavery and “patriarchy” ring louder.
With such “progressive” approaches to reenacting historical drama, I was disappointed that the latest season of the TV show ‘The Crown’ opted to cast a milky white woman in the role of Camilla Bowles. In light of the charges of racism that former Prince Harry and his multi-racial wife Meghan Markle made against Queen Elizabeth and the royal family, it would have been an interesting twist for the redhead to hate the usurper of his father’s love, had Prince Charles run off with a Black woman.
Perhaps better still, a strong Black man, like Samuel L. Jackson, should have played Princess Diana. It would have been a meaningful commentary on proper British society for the future king of England to marry a Black man, and have the English consider racism, homophobia, the demeaning objectification of a princess, and the importance of an heir, all at one time.
Samuel L. Jackson should have played Prince Harry’s mother, Princess Diana, in ‘The Crown’
The annual Chanukah tradition of tasting sufganiyut (filled donuts) at local bakeries returned us to Brooklyn this year. We decided to focus on Flatbush and Williamsburg, and skipped the usual run in Boro Park. Below are the bakeries we went to in order, in case anyone would like to replicate the tour.
Ostrovitsky’s, 1124 Avenue J
Our first stop was Ostrovitsky’s which scored well in prior visits. Unfortunately, the selection this year was beautiful but not good. The flavors looked great – Hazelnut, Napolean, Lotus, Oreo, Chocolate Mousse and Rosemary – but the dough tasted like it was a few days old. The filling flavor was still good but the amount of filling was very different depending on which donut we sampled (yes, we taste everything).
Pomegranate Supermarket, 1507 Coney Island Ave
We made an exception for the strictly bakery locations for Pomegranate, because of the store’s great reputation. There were basic flavors to try – jelly, chocolate, custard and caramel – and the jelly was really great. Dough was light and tasty and just the right amount of jelly and flavor. The $4.00 each for non-fancy seemed steep, but they were good.
Sesame, 1540 Coney Island Ave.
Sesame was packed as usual with a line to get in the store (and Chanukah didn’t even start until that evening!) The bakery always has a great assortment of flavors and they are usually terrific. This year, we found the dough and filling excellent once again, however a bit sweeter than past years. We are biased towards flavor over sugar, and this year, there was a complete lack of subtlety. Pistachio is always a favorite but now it comes complete with a sugar rush. We tried hazelnut and peanut this year too, and picked up a couple dozen for people in our neighborhood who crave them.
Sesame’s Flatbush location
Taste of Israel, 1322 Avenue M
We heard good things about TOI but were then told that they only took pre-orders. We may stop by again next Sunday.
Schreiber’s Homestyle Bakery, 3008 Avenue M
Schreiber’s simply has the best lace cookies so we go every year. While not a complicated dessert, they have a great crispiness in a single layer and a generous dipping of excellent chocolate. Make sure to pick some up along with the sufganiyut.
The majority in the store are pareve. They have pre-boxed assortments and we picked up a few to bring to a dinner party (see below). The dairy ones which we ate on the spot had amazing dough – very light and tasty. Please go to the back to pick these up. The strawberry had the perfect amount of filling and also a really nice light flavor. The cheese was a little too light on flavor.
Schreiber’s pareve assortment presents nicely on a dessert table
We took a short break to watch the World Cup finals and got to see the end of the second period of extra time and the shootout with Argentina beating France. I’m not sure how many families watched the end of the amazing 2022 game in a hair salon in the middle of a Chanukah donut crawl, but to those who did – wasn’t it great?
Oneg Bakery, 188 Lee Avenue
We drove to Williamsburg which is a hike I do not recommend. If you are going to the neighborhood anyway, that’s fine but not together with Flatbush which can be 45 minutes away.
Oneg is rightfully famous for its heavy babka, among the best in the world. They are huge at $45 for a half and $90 for a whole. We actually get the large and cut it into three, as they freeze well.
The store is very small and old school. The donuts aren’t fancy but the classic jelly was excellent, maybe only slightly behind Pomegranate’s in terms of flavor and consistency of filling.
Black and White Bakery, 520 Park Ave
B&W was a real disappointment. We had a good experience there in the past, and the chocolate horn was indeed very good. However, the donuts are too expensive ($6.50), almost all dairy, and lacking a variety of taste. Every donut seemed to have the same cheese filling, just with a different topping. While the toppings were attractive, they lacked in flavor. On the plus side, you can davenmincha at the Yeshivat Viznitz around the corner with over 100 Satmar students.
Below is the ranking for this year’s donut crawl. If you visit, please tell them about the review on the blog First One Through. As Chanukah covers two weekends this year, we are likely to make a second run next weekend, possibly visiting Boro Park and Crown Heights bakeries.
First One Through 